Aw, heck.
I’m sucking it up and writing about Valentine’s Day, after the fact. Because
this dessert is so good I can’t keep it in any longer.
Such a
controversial holiday. But why? Why does a holiday have to be created by the
church or government to be a “real” holiday? Why not one that’s just because we
want to?
I know
some people get upset that they “must” do something on Valentine’s Day. But
see, when I was growing up, my dad loved to go out and get my mother
sentimental cards and tell her how much he loved her, all while she told him it
was a bullsh** holiday and – though she smiled – a waste of time and money.
It taught my
impressionable little mind that in spite of having 14 kids who were hard to
raise (to put it mildly) he still thought she was the ultimate woman, his dream
woman. They were a united front in the world.
I decided
that people who didn’t like Valentine’s Day maybe just didn’t feel the way he
did about her.
I know, I
KNOW it was built up by the greeting card companies, in sometimes uncomfortable
ads like the one Hallmark ran this year. But isn’t it a good thing, that there
are ads to counteract the animosity between the sexes created by auto and booze
companies? Ones that bring us together to buy into something instead of
creating tension between us?
There,
I’ve said my peace, and will now divulge the most decadent Valentine’s Day
dessert I know of, Red Velvet Black and Whites. No, these are not dry cookies
with flavorless white and chocolate sugar coating, but the lightest, fluffiest
soft cakes, with two helpings of frosting – rich chocolate and vanilla cream
cheese.
The best
part is that the secret to the cookie texture is that they are gluten free, so
nothing in them to make them tough.
I make
them this way because I always hated black & white cookies, the kind you
get wrapped in plastic in New York delis, until I had the version at Lassen& Hennigs, a gourmet grocery and deli in Brooklyn Heights. The frosting is
so decadent that they don’t wrap them in plastic but put them in their own
containers, sinfully beckoning to one from the cash register. (They are wrong,
wrong, wrong!)
This is
one of the few recipes I recommend using a gluten-free mix. I’m someone who
bakes mostly from scratch. The chocolate frosting here alone takes as long as
the cookies themselves. And, I do make red velvet cupcakes from scratch. So you
know I wouldn’t be recommending it here if it weren’t a good idea. In this
case, the Better Batter all-purpose gluten-free flour really does make a fantastic whoopee pie cookie,
with a harder top and soft inside. I just make their cupcake recipe and bake it
in a whoopee-pie pan (or muffin-top pan, or to make them even smaller, the
bottom of a muffin tin).
Decadent Red Velvet Black and Whites
Makes
about a dozen large muffin-top sized cookies
Do make the chocolate frosting a
day ahead and reheat in microwave or over a double boiler to frost.
The cookie and cream cheese
frosting recipes are from Better Batter’s web site. The chocolate frosting is
the Shiny Fudge Frosting from Carole Walter’s Great Cakes.
For the Cookies:
1/2 cup (1
stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups
sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon
vanilla extract
1 cup
buttermilk
1 1oz
bottle red food coloring
1/3 cup
cocoa
1 teaspoon
salt
1 1/2
teaspoons baking soda
1 tablespoon
white vinegar
For the
Cream Cheese Frosting:
1/2 cup (1
stick) unsalted butter
8 oz cream
cheese
3 cups
powdered sugar
1 teaspoon
vanilla extract
For the
Chocolate Frosting:
½ cup
sugar
¼ cup water
2
tablespoons light corn syrup
4 oz
unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
5
tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 cups
strained confectioner’s sugar (measured after straining)
2
tablespoons very hot water
1 teaspoon
vanilla extract
Make the
chocolate frosting (a day ahead, if possible):
Assemble
ingredients before proceeding. Put a kettle on to boil separately, for the hot
water you will need later in the recipe.
Combine
the sugar, water and corn syrup in a medium sized saucepan. Stir briefly, cover,
and bring to a slow boil. Brush sides of saucepan occasionally if necessary
with clear water to prevent crystals from forming. When sugar is completely
dissolved, simmer syrup about 3 minutes.
Remove the
sugar syrup from the heat and add the chocolate all at once, stirring
continuously with a metal spoon until the chocolate is dissolved. Beat the butter
into the chocolate mixture, then add the confectioner’s sugar alternately with
the hot water, dividing the sugar into two parts and the water into two parts.
Blend in the vanilla and beat again until smooth and shiny.
Keep chocolate
frosting in an airtight container until ready to use. Reheat in microwave oven
or over a double boiler but only just til soft, do not let it get excessively
hot. This frosting must be kept warm to spread easily onto cookies.
Make the
cookies:
Heat oven
to 350 degrees. Grease a muffin-top pan, or whoopee-pie pan. Beat butter or
margarine in bowl, then add sugar, on medium speed, for about 4 minutes or
until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and vanilla.
Meanwhile,
stir together buttermilk and food coloring in a small bowl. In another bowl,
whisk together flour, cocoa and salt. Turn mixer speed to low. Alternate
between the buttermilk and flour mixture, about a third at a time, until just
combined.
In a small
cup, stir together vinegar and baking soda. Allow to fizz before adding to the
batter.
Fill pan,
just enough to make a cookie, in each hollowed out area. Bake for 15-20
minutes, or until tops lightly spring back when you touch them. Allow to cool
on a rack.
Make the
cream cheese frosting:
Cream
butter and cream cheese together until smooth. Add vanilla extract and beat
till very smooth. Add powdered sugar, and beat until frosting consistency.
When
cookies are cooled, frost half with chocolate frosting and half with cream cheese
frosting.
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