At a holiday party last month, I met a woman who told me of
learning she had celiac. I had brought these fantastic gluten-free red velvet
cupcakes, made from a recipe found at Gluten Free Cooking School. But when she found
out they contained brown rice flour, she wouldn’t eat them. All she could say was "Gritty! When
I’ve eaten gluten-free cakes with brown rice flour in them, they’ve been gritty
and tasted terrible!”
(BTW, these
cupcakes are moist and delicious, and dare I say – better than wheat flour
cupcakes!)
I’m the last person to recommend people eat gluten-free
cakes. They have less nutritional value than ones made with wheat flour (or
than flourless chocolate cakes, for that matter). But it really gets to me that
people who have not done their homework just put any old brown rice flour into any recipe
and feed it to unsuspecting celiacs, giving gluten-free baking a bad
name.
I can’t deny that what happened to her has happened to us.
We’ve driven out of our way to try baked goods at places recommended on
gluten-free blogs, only to find they were dry, pasty and flavorless. And, early
on in my gluten-free baking days, Saveur.com provided a link to a blog post
that they claimed had delicious gluten-free recipes for the holidays. The
blogger was a photographer and her cakes were indeed beautiful. But I had to
throw the results into the garbage and brush the grit out of my teeth. I am not
exaggerating. (To Saveur’s credit they did not feature her recipes in the
magazine, but I am still shocked that a magazine which is so reliable would
post a link to recipes they hadn’t tried or tested.)
It’s incidents like these that give gluten-free baked goods
a bad name. Especially considering that in reality, gluten-free starches are a long-time secret to light Italian and Sicilian cookies and cakes. Some things even have a much better texture
and crumb when gluten-free, like scones and pancakes—both light and whole
grain.
But there is a caveat—if you want gluten-free cakes to work
out right and not end up pasty or gritty, it’s better not to go vegan. If you insist on gluten-free AND vegan baked
goods, you will have to stick to fruit crisps, tofu or nut creams, and limited
number of bread and cookie recipes. The vast majority of the rest require butter,
eggs and/or other dairy such as milk or yogurt, buttermilk and sour cream for
optimum deliciousness.
Here is a tried-and-true recipe that is both gluten-free AND
vegan. It is an old chestnut from the health-food world, originally from the
Sunspire Chocolate Chips package, combined with a favorite cookie-crust recipe of mine. It is an elegant Chocolate Tofu-Cream Pie. You can
make it in a normal sized 9” pie plate or in a fluted 10” or 11” tart pan.
It really is “easy as pie”—all you have to do is bake a
cookie crust with oats and nuts, and then fill with the tofu cream. With this
crust, it’s also a complete protein so you could theoretically eat a slice for
a snack or breakfast. The type of chocolate chips you use will determine the
type of sweetener and how much. Sunspire and Rapunzel make organic chocolate
sweetened with healthier sweeteners, if you want to go that route. Personally,
I prefer Guittard chocolate chips, but they truly are decadent.
Chocolate Tofu-Cream Pie
Adapted from Sunspire
Dry Ingredients:
1 cup oat flour
1 cup rolled oats
1 cup walnut halves, ground in food processor fitted with
metal blade
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
Wet Ingredients:
¼ cup + 1 tablespoon safflower or other no-taste oil
¼ cup + 1 tablespoon grade B maple syrup
2 tablespoons water
Tofu Cream:
12 oz. semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 lb. silken tofu
1 tsp. vanilla
Chocolate shavings for serving (optional)
Place rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 375F. Mix
together dry ingredients well. Whisk wet ingredients and add to dry, combining completely.
Cover a one-cup measuring cup with saran wrap and use to press crust dough into
bottom and up sides of a greased 9” pie plate or 10 1/2” tart pan with
removable bottom.
Bake for 18-20 minutes on middle rack of oven, until lightly
browned. While crust bakes, wash food processor bowl, blade and top. Place silken
tofu and vanilla into clean food processor bowl fitted with metal blade.
While crust is cooling, melt chocolate in microwave or on
top of a double boiler until just melted. When melting the chocolate chips: it’s a good idea to heat until two-thirds
or so are melted, and then remove from heat and mix together with a spatula or
spoon until all are melted, only placing over heat briefly to get the last
pieces. This way you aren’t likely to burn the chocolate accidentally.
Once melted, quickly pour chocolate over tofu and vanilla in
food processor bowl, and process until smooth. Pour filling into crust,
spreading quickly. It is important to work quickly because the minute the chocolate
hits the cold tofu, it begins to harden. Also, it is important to spread into
the pie plate quickly to achieve a smooth, shiny top.
Refrigerate for at least one hour, until cold and stiff
enough to be sliced. When ready to serve, garnish with shaved chocolate if
desired.
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